Thread Count

You don’t have the time to research every home decor decision you make. It’s my job to help you. So here; I hope; is thread count explained and what it means in bedding. Please remember that there are no legal guidelines for listing thread count and there is no international standard for labeling bedding.

Lets start with how these threads are constructed. Fibers are spun to form one long strand. This is called a thread. Now, lets take 2 threads and twist them together. This is called 2 ply. This is what happens when yarn is made - think of unraveling a piece of yarn. Did you get 2 or 3 or 4 threads? If 4 threads are twisted together, it is called 4 ply. The 4 ply yarn takes up more space and if you were knitting a garment it would usually be thicker with 4 ply than with 2 ply.

Now lets weave that 2 ply ‘yarn’ into cloth. If we use 100 pieces of yarn per inch we have used 200 threads ( 2 threads per piece of yarn). This is 200 thread count. If we used 50 pieces of 4 ply yarn ( 4 threads per piece of yarn), we would still have a 200 thread count but there would be

fewer pieces of ‘yarn’ per inch. Usually the higher the ply, the shorter the fibers in each thread, and the less quality. Longer fibers produce a silkier feeling thread, they are considered higher quality; producing a more desirable fabric and a 1 or 2 ply fabric is more ‘delicate’ than a higher 3 or 4 ply.

There is some discussion in the industry regarding this method of calculating thread count. Some companies say one piece of ‘yarn’ is one thread count, no matter what the ply, some insist that 2 ply equals 2 threads. Few companies list the ply of the ‘yarn’ used, but if you can

find it on the label it is a good indicator that the manufacturer is using top quality fibers and is proud of that fact. So with this in mind and the fact that there are no guidelines or standards across the industry, the thread count of the sheet you are looking at really doesn’t mean as much as you have been lead to believe.

So how do you choose a good sheet? The best advise I can give you is to buy from a retailer who knows about sheets. Ask questions. I talked to Ginny at Victorian Impressions ( go in and see her 1000 thread count sheet) and she shared some specifics you might want to know about. Ginny sells beautiful upscale bedding ( and home decor items, lingerie and women's clothing). She carries one particular brand of sheets from a direct supplier. This means she is not dealing with a middle man and her prices are reflective of this. She has dealt with this supplier for quite a few years and knows their products well. The quality of the cotton used in their products is superior and the workmanship hits a very high standard. One of her sheet sets list the ply of the yarn ( 2 ) and she can tell you how each sheet washes; what the feel will be after laundering. This is important. For example, her sateen sheets will retain the smooth, satin-like finish after washing. This is because the fibers used are of the highest quality and that fact coupled with the weave of the sheet is what produces a sateen finish; not a chemical applied to the product. Have you ever seen what happens to 'chintz' after washing? This is a highly polished, tightly woven cotton that was used quite a bit in home decor in the late 80's and early 90's. When washed, the finish came off and the leftover fabric looked, and felt, like a rag. The chemical finish is what gave it a stiff feel. This sizing is often applied to inferior cottons to give it a more substantial feel. If you think a fabric may have a lot of sizing, you can check by pinching a layer of the fabric between a moistened thumb and forefinger. Hold it tightly for 5 seconds or so. Release the fabric and check how much 'stick' there is on your fingers. This is the stuff that will wash out. You may find a bit of 'stick' on some sheets and the more inferior the quality of the sheet, the more 'stick' you will feel.

Considering that we spend about 1/3 of our life in bed, a good quality sheet can make this time a lot more enjoyable. Polyester and cotton blend sheets are usually less expensive than 100% cotton and they won't wrinkle as much but when I think polyester, I think 'plastic'. It doesn't breath like cotton and most polyesters do not absorb moisture well, making for a less than comfortable sleep on those hot nights. I. personally, will opt for comfort over wrinkles every time.

Arranging Pictures

I'll be posting some lighting information within the next while. Bit busy in the workroom right now..

One of the most interesting picture walls I’ve seen was a compilation of about 60 pictures, all different subjects, all different sizes and frame styles that were displayed on a wall; covering the wall from the ceiling to the floor, wall to wall. What made the arrangement work is that each picture contained the exact same shade of blue. This is one of the keys of good picture arrangement: a commonality. In this case it was the blue, it could be the subject - all pictures of nature, or pictures of the dog , it could be the frame, it could be the color - all sepia toned for example. To unify an arrangement, there needs to be some reason for all the pictures to be together.

A client of mine was the keeper of the family photos. She had photos everywhere; every book shelf, every wall, every table top. The clutter this created finally got to her and she asked for help. We used the big piece of paper technique and hung all the pictures on the wall behind the sofa. A real rogues gallery. 10 years later she has changed the arrangement to accommodate new photos but the gallery is still the focal point of her living room and she is quite proud of it.

A few ‘guidelines’:

Just like picking an area rug, the picture arrangement shape takes its cue from the space it is going to occupy. A rectangular shape suggests a rectangular or oval arrangement, a square shape suggests a square or round arrangement.

The arrangement should never be wider than the object over which it is placed. If your sofa is 80 inches wide, the arrangement over it should not be more than 80 inches wide unless you increase the visual width of the sofa - with lamps on tables, or a large plant for example.

There needs to be at least one ‘suggested’ horizontal and vertical line.

The spaces between the pictures should be consistent.

I am often asked 'How high do I hang pictures?' You hang pictures so the center is at eye level. Will the person viewing the picture be sitting or standing? If there is one main picture in the grouping, place the horizontal center of it at a height where it will be viewed straight on. If you have a grouping on a dining room wall, this picture should be placed where the center will be on level with someone sitting at the table, if that is how it will be viewed. In a long hall arrangement the horizontal center should be placed for someone standing. If all the folks in your home are really tall, mount the pictures higher.

How to hang pictures

So you have gathered all your family photos and decided to hang them together on that long hall wall.  10 pictures; hopefully only 10 holes in the wall. Chances are really good there will be more than 10 holes. Hopefully the pictures  will be straight. Hopefully they will look like some thought went into the placement.  Hopefully  they will be spaced evenly.  Here is how to do it with no extra holes and no crooked pictures. I promise. These instructions don’t address the issues of arranging the photos, I’ll  talk about that in the next column, but if you just trust yourself chances are you will get a good arrangement anyway.

First, measure the space of the wall onto which the pictures will be hung and make a piece of paper this size.  Lay it on the floor.   

Number each picture in your grouping.

Lay the pictures on the paper, move them around until you have found an arrangement that appeals to you. 

Once you have the pictures well placed, draw around each picture with a marker.

Remove each picture and write the number of the picture on its place on the paper.

Hang the paper on the wall  - just tape it up. Make sure it is straight on the wall. 

Now you need to make a picture hanging tool.  You need a piece of 1x2  board about 24” long.  Into one end of the 1x2, in the center of the 2” side  about 4” down from the top ,  insert a long  drywall screw so that it goes through and sticks out  the other side at least 1/2”.  Basically what you have is a stick with a screw through the wood, the head of the screw sticking out one side about 1/2-1”,  going through the board and sticking out the other side 1/2”. 

Pick up one of your pictures, hook the hanging wire onto the head end of the screw.  Holding the whole thing like a sign in your left hand, position the picture over it’s particular spot on the wall diagram and gently push on the very top of the 1 x 2 with your right hand. The screw will  poke into the wall, indicating exactly where the hook or nail for the picture should be. 

 Put the nails or picture hanging hooks into the wall  at each screw ‘poke’ - right through the paper. Rip the paper off enough to mark the wall with the picture number. Do this with all the pictures, take off the paper and hang your pictures.   Done. 

This is a picture of my picture hanging tool, from the side, the top and with a side view of a picture hanging on it, ready to mark the wall with the exact position of the picture hanging hook or nail..

Permission To Do Nothing.

I got a call  the other day from a lady I initially talked to about 2 years ago when she had just moved into her new home and needed some window coverings. I went to see her, did some designs on a photograph of her window, found some great fabric and after several visits we decided she wasn’t ready to make up her mind. Two years later she tells me she still can’t decide what she wants on the windows but thinks she should do something and so I asked her, again, why she thought she had to put anything on the windows at all. Privacy is not an issue.  She told me she frequently sees really nice drapes in other homes and keeps thinking she should put something on her windows. Key word here  is ‘should’. It’s not what she wants to do, it’s what she thinks she should do. 

I went to install some drapes last week and the homeowners new dining room set had been delivered. Beautiful  dark wood table with a lovely lighter wood top, chairs to match.  She told me she was going to have to find chair pads but didn’t know what to look for.  I asked her why she thought she needed chair pads. (This is a grandchildren friendly home and I know chair pads can be crumb magnets... ) She said she didn’t know, just thought she should have them.  I pointed out that chair pads slip around, the ties rarely stay secure , she would be covering up the beautiful wood and  the chairs are comfortable without chair pads. As she was thinking about all of this I told her she had permission NOT to put  on chair pads.  I saw a light go on for her. 

Just because you have a window does not mean you have to cover it. Just because the dress is on sale doesn’t mean you have to buy it. Just because your neighbor has drapes on every window and each room is  totally coordinated doesn’t mean your house has to be that way.  Your home is individual to you and your needs. What anyone else thinks really doesn’t matter - you are the one who has to live with it. If it is not comfortable for you, it’s wrong. Just that simple.  So please, stop listening to the mavins on TV telling you what colors are  ‘in’ and what is a ‘must’ for this season’s well dressed home. Don’t let the cable guy  tell you where your TV should go. I know you all  appreciate your well-meaning relatives and friends but  just remember:  it is YOUR home. 

You have permission to do nothing.  

Recycling

Recycling.

We recycle so much of what is in our homes yet many people are mystified when it comes to what to do with their old drapes or blinds and the pieces end up in the landfill. First of all, maybe they aren’t really  ready for the big bin yet.

Many blind distributors are trained on repair of their product so you may be able to have  broken cords or missing slats repaired locally.  Consider having blinds re-cut to fit a smaller window. If your verticals are vinyl consider painting them  with Crylon paint- add a new fabric valance and side panels for more pizazz.

When removing blinds make sure you keep all the hardware. Put it in a small bag and attach it to the blinds.  If you want to really be helpful, take a picture of the hardware as it sits on the wall and include that. 

 The Churches thrift store will take blinds and drapes.  Call the Women’s Shelter and the Salvation Army. You could put an ad in the paper and give them away.  If you want to sell them, be realistic about the price - usually  about $5.00  to $10.00 per hundred of original price.

Drapes and curtains (drapes are lined, curtains are not) are prime candidates for in-home recycling. I recently took down some living room drapes and re- cut and re-pleated them for use in 3 basement bedrooms.   The fabric was in  good condition and we didn’t even have to put in new lining (good quality lining to start with.) We saved hundreds of dollars by doing this. The fabric would also have been quite suitable for a slipcover, or duvet cover, or big floor cushions. 

Perhaps you like the drapes but just want an ‘update’.  Think about attaching a trim or band of color  to the leading edge, perhaps re-styling the drapes will do the trick. If you have recently installed blinds and don’t need the full drape coverage re-cutting the drapes to side panels and a valance is a good idea. 

Consider trading with a neighbor or  having  Roman Blinds constructed for another room.

It could be that your drapes are fine but you require more light control  and heat loss protection.  Lining can be added - to the existing drapes or as a separate curtain- that will provide just the coverage you need. 

With  the amazing assortment of fabric  available now it is almost always possible to  find a  complimentary fabric and use the old and new to re-do a spare room. Don’t forget the impact of good trims and the special look created by mixing patterns. I have 150 fabric books to work from and the gals at the local fabric stores are really helpful when co-ordinating patterns. Have fun..

How to choose a paint color.

Once again, the additions to the column appear here in gold type.

It seems that choosing a color to paint the walls is one of the most difficult for a lot of DIYers.  In my Interior Decorating short course we spend at least 8 hours learning about  colors. This is  the summary version  of part of that   but the best advice I can give is to hire a professional for a one hour consultation. The cost will be about the same as a gallon of good quality paint.  Could save you a lot of money. And remember - if the worst happens and the color is really bad, you can change it.

First of all it is important that you test the paint color in the room where it will used.  Purchase a tester -or a liter if necessary -  of the paints you have chosen and test them. This does NOT mean painting several colors on one wall. Your eye will see a blend of the colors, not each one individually.  Go to the dollar store and get some white poster boards and paint  one color on each. Keep them away from each other and  move them around the room, see what happens to the colors at night. 

How to choose the color:  Start with a color scheme.   The easiest way is to take  your scheme  from an  existing  one: the sofa fabric, a painting or a cushion for example. Don’t  try to re-invent the wheel;  people get paid a lot of money to design these color schemes.  Get paint samples and match the 3 basic colors in your ‘inspiration’ piece:   the background color, a mid tone and  the most vivid. Match the colors exactly. This is your color scheme.  Now look at the samples in terms of intensity.  If you change the intensity of one color, change the intensity of all 3 to the same degree.

The main color is the background color and  should appear on 60% of the surfaces in a room  ( walls, drapes, floors) - there is your wall color.  The mid tone color  should appear on 30%  ( large upholstered pieces; the occasional chair, the upholstered seat of the vanity,  the banding on the drapes. the bedskirt) and the accent color on 10% ( accessories- cushions, vases, coffee table accessories). 

These colors can appear in different forms:  various textures  or surfaces and prints. The values (intensity) can vary somewhat;  just stay on the color - no mixing blue-green and yellow-green for example.  If you are not familiar with a color wheel, go buy one at the art supply store and spend some time with it. 

The website  www.ehow.com/how_4584162_use-understand-color-wheel.html will get  you started.

Some other things to consider when choosing a color scheme:  Have you ever been in a red  based room when the sun shines through the windows?  Or have you stood in a blue bedroom with a blizzard swirling outside?  The color of the room intensifies the feelings of heat and cold. So think about this a bit. If your bedroom faces north maybe blue is not the best color for it.  You might want to consider a warm color - in the reds, oranges, or  yellows side of the color wheel.  If your living room faces south you might want to forgo the terracotta based color scheme and choose something from the blue or green side of the color wheel.  I had occasion once to do some work in a white house. The walls, carpets, furniture, tables, chairs and even the piano were white.  There were no window treatments on the 12 foot high windows. On my initial visit to the house there was a Calgary blizzard happening and  I felt like I was standing outside.  It was the coldest feeling room I have ever been in.  

We put some valances and side treatments on the windows that helped a bit but the all white scheme was still very overpowering. 

If  you have read  my previous columns, you know a bit about contrast. High  contrast color schemes tend to make rooms seem smaller - your poor eyes jump from color to color . If your room is small, you might consider a color scheme of two colors in muted tones, or even a  monochromatic color scheme with lots of texture. 

Do you want the room to feel warm or cool? If cool, pick a main color from the cool side of the color wheel,  pick from the warm side for a warm room. This is a guideline. It is not written in stone and it is based on a 3 color scheme. Many contemporary spaces are 2 color schemes, but the same guidelines apply.  Hope this helps.

Other Uses for Things

Information that is in addition to the column is in italics and gold colored.

For a special occasion my nephew wanted to wear the navy blue suit in which his grandfather had been married in 1947 but there was a fairly large sun bleach spot on one shoulder. My sister, the Queen of Fix-its, used navy blue floral spray paint  to camouflage the spot. ( Floral spray paint stays ‘bendable’).

A client recently told me she was going to try to cover some plastic vertical blinds with fabric. I suggested she try  Crylon Paint instead. This paint is amazing and was made especially for painting plastic, like the ratty old plastic lawn chairs you thought you’d have to throw out. Crylon paint comes in a good color selection, available at  Hardware Stores .

My Quilters erasable pen is one of my favorite tools. It makes a great, bright purple  mark that fades to nothing  or can be removed with the built in eraser.  I use it in the workroom to mark fabric ( it’s intended use ) and at installations to mark the walls for  bracket placement and things.  Available at Fabricland

If your venetian blinds are dust magnets, spray them with static guard. It helps keep the dust from sticking and makes them easier to clean.  Also - use a  washable wool duster for cleaning them. Wool will actually pick up the dust, not just move it around like feather or polyester dusters do. 

If you are a sewer and need to trace your patterns, try medical  examining table paper. It comes in a roll, is semi-transparent, quite strong and a lot less expensive than the commercially available pattern tracing paper.  Available at the medical supply store in Vernon- behind the large downtown Safeway.

I recently had to install a curtain as a room divider. We could have only one center support, the rod was 12 feet long and the support had to hang from the ceiling.  I used a pipe stand from the local plumbing/electrical supply house. It cost about $4.00, as opposed to the $20.00 and up that similar supports cost from  drapery hardware  suppliers. Got this one at EMCO, they are metal so they can be painted to match the curtain rod color.

The cat peed on the new very expensive brown  leather sofa. It left a large dark green stain.  The Queen of Fix-its tried a lot of leather cleaning  products that didn’t work - but in the end Magic Eraser took the stain out totally. Stain is gone, so is the cat. 

Here are a few more ‘Other Uses’:

To mount a curtain rod inside the window frame a ‘J-hook’ from the plumbing department  can be painted and mounted to the frame and will accommodate up to about  5/8” diameter rod.  They cost less than a dollar each.

 I use releasable  zip ties to transform a flat sheet into a fitted sheet.   Drape the sheet over the mattress, in your left hand gather up all the excess fabric at one corner,  holding it close to the top of the box spring. Put a zip tie around the bundle, snug everything up and then tighten the tie well and tuck it under the mattress. Zip ties are not usually releasable but the automotive industry has them, they are available through Napa special order but their minimum is a  bundle  of 100 for $24.00. I got mine at Bumper to Bumper for 6 for $4.00. If you want to order some, call me and maybe a few of us can go together on a bundle. I certainly don’t want 100 of them....

Here is an ‘Other Uses’ from the President of the Canadian Drapery Workroom Association, Lori Crank:

A product named Green Works - it is a "natural glass & surface cleaner" made by Clorox, comes in a spray bottle like any other glass cleaner. Liquid is clear and works as an excellent spot remover on fabric. Of course test an area first - but I have never seen residue from this product. My little lifesaver!  Lori

Off Center Things

 I worked with a designer who loved asymmetrical things. If I hung a picture straight in the show room, she would come behind me and skew it just a bit. All the furniture in her living room was off centered, just a bit.  We did a Christmas Show Home one year and  one of my jobs was to go behind her and straighten everything. She took great delight in finding a window off center in a room.  She thought it showed some individuality.  I believe I am in the majority when I say that off center windows are really annoying. 

Here’s the thing about architectural elements in a room that you do not find pleasing and you can not change: you can camouflage it, you can ignore it, or you can accent it.

Camouflage it: remember what I’ve said about contrast? Here is a prime example of how to use that knowledge: Make the offending ‘item’ blend into it’s surroundings.

Ignore it:  This is a personal choice. If you have recognized a feature as being ‘bad architecture’ chances are good you will not be able to ignore it; but if you can, go ahead. You are the one who will have to look at it and live with it. 

Accent it: Make a statement out of item.  Draw attention to it, make it the focal point of the room.

I promise you that the most effective way to deal with architecture that you can not change  is to camouflage it. 

Suppose the window is off center.  Use drapes and  have them centered on the wall. Please look at the brown and yellow bedroom  in the Gallery on my website, Designsewlutions.ca for pictures of this problem and the fix. 

You may not care if the wall is in balance or not. If that is so, then put blinds on the window and away you go but remember this: asymmetrical  decorating is very difficult to do well. Unless you are a bit of a genius with balance and scale, no matter what you do the room feel slightly off kilter until you deal with the off center situation. This applies to most architectural  elephants in a room.  The easiest fix of all is to call a professional and get some good advice. 

This is the latest article in the Design Dilemmas series. I have added comments not published in the newspaper and have highlighted them in gold.

Here comes the Sun.

Great having the sun back.  Personally I love the heat but if you don’t and the sun is heating up your rooms, here are some reasonably priced things you can do to help control the temperature. 

 In my opinion the best thing you can do is have solar film applied to the windows. It is applied to the outside of the window and can reduce the UV  rays ( ie heat) by as much as 80%. The UV rays are also what damage your floor and bleach out your sofa fabric. This film, if professionally installed, is one of the best heat beaters I’ve ever seen - that still allows you to see out the window. In Salmon Arm Trademark Glass is the dealer I am most familiar with. Several of my clients have had the film installed and all have been just thrilled with the results.  

You can install black-out roller blinds, Roman blinds,  venetians or cellular shades. These work very well, just remember that there will be up to  one third of an inch gap on each side of the blind to allow for hardware. On a window 60 x 40  this gap would be equivalent to a hole about 5 inches square. If you add a good deep valance and side panels, all blackout lined, you will get  good heat protection but this solution  does not allow you to see out. On the gallery I have posted a before and after sequence of a blackout roller blind with a lot of  light seepage around the edges and the result with a blackout lined valance and side panels.  

Shade cloth is available now that will block about 75% of the UV rays and allows great view out, very little view in on a sunny day. This product is sewable and quite inexpensive,  perfect for patio or balcony curtains.  I have this fabric coming, should be here within a few weeks. I will sell it as a finished drape or blind  or as yardage so call me for more information. 250-833-1120.

You can have black out liners made for your existing drapery. There is a new blackout lining on the market that is quite drapeable, much nicer in feel that the older, stiff  blackout lining. These liners can be made totally detachable for cleaning and can be made to attach to almost any drapery treatment.  Totally opaque but fantastic heat protection, both keeping heat out in summer and in in the winter. On the gallery I have a before and after with dimout lining. The sun reflection on the floor is quite visible and the heat control these drapes provide was immediately noticeable.

I have seen fabric disintegrate after being exposed to the sun in just 1 season. I have seen hardwood floors bleached after a short time, and sofa fabric completely ruined by the sun. All these can be avoided it you put the right coverage on your window to start with.

Fabric Differences

 Which Fabric Should I Use?

I don’t mind a client bringing their own fabric to have me construct drapes or cushions or whatevers.  BUT often I am asked to use fabric that is not the correct quality or type suitable to the design. So,, for all you gals who want to find your own fabric, you should be aware of a few differences between fabric types. Each category has a specific purpose and while we can sometimes use one type of fabric for another, most often these fabrics do not cross the lines very easily. So, when you are out looking for fabric start in the correct department.  Just as you would not expect an inexpensive, indoor paint to look good and last as an outdoor paint, do not expect a fabric not intended for drapery to look as good as most drapery fabric. These are some of the main differences, by no means all the differences:

Quilting Fabric: usually 100% cotton, usually 45” wide. Usually fairly tight weave. 

These fabrics are very thin compared to most drapery fabric and therefore, in order to use them as drapery, they require special linings. The cost of the fabric itself can be quite expensive and because it is so narrow, more is needed for drapery and coupled with the interlining the cost can quickly approach that of a substantial drapery fabric. And it can shrink so pre-washing is a must if you want to wash the finished product.  Imagine ironing 15 meters of cotton.  

Upholstery Fabric: The easiest distinction here is that the design on upholstery fabrics runs across the bolt, from one edge as the top,  to the other as the bottom.  (Think ‘bouquets of flowers side by side  across the back of a sofa’). This is called railroaded.   Upholstery fabric often has a backing, it often feels slightly ‘sticky’ to  the touch and is usually  heavier than drapery fabric.  It doesn’t drape well and  is not usually  washable  and sometimes is  not dry-cleanable either. 

Drapery Fabric: The design runs up the bolt.  ( Think  ‘bouquets of flowers running up a very tall drape’) The fabric is usually 54 inches wide and it can be as light as a sheer (see-through) to  as  heavy as a  velvet.  Most drapery fabric is dry-cleanable, some is washable and a lot  of it has cotton or linen as part of the content. Depending on the weight it can sometimes be used for light upholstery, slipcovers and bedding.  

Fashion Fabrics: Almost everything else. Really. There are so many fibers and combinations it would be impossible to list them all . Some fashion fabrics, like fine wool blends, work well in the drapery world, and denim and canvas are great for slipcovers, but these are 100% natural fiber fabrics.  Some silks, velvets and corduroy’s  are great for cushions and things but they are not meant to take the abuse upholstery fabric will and usually have a much shorter life span. If the fabric has a viscose or rayon content it may stretch or sag. If it is a stretch fabric it is probably unsuitable for most home decor applications.

Now, having said all that, a decorator I knew used screen door mesh to construct drapes for a hair salon. I have used $6.00 per meter silk from a Sari shop for drapes.  I have used black denim for slipcovers that was initially intended for chefs jackets.   And I made a Grade 12’s grad ‘skirt’ out of 10 meters of embroidered drapery sheer.  Once again, if in doubt, please ask. I take phone calls and I’ll even go shopping with you. 

Magnetic Roman Blind and Valance Headrail

This post appears here and on the gallery. I think it is important to get the 'word' out about this because for years we have been trying to find a solution to the metal door and I  now have a functioning Roman Blind that does the job.

Some new developments on the magnetic headrail front.  I can now put a cord lock system on the headrail, no need for a cord cleat.  Today I installed a blind  25" wide and 84" long. Some

new components are coming my way and  I hope to be able to put a continuous cord system on the

 magnetic headrail soon.. Stay tuned!!

 This is one of the first ones I completed: Muslin for the blind, a jacquard for the valance. 

This decorative valance and functioning Roman Blind  are attached to the metal door  via a 

 magnetic headrails.  What makes this one different is that a valance or shade can be attached to it with velcro or staples. I've been thinking about this and trying different things for quite awhile. I've  got it now - the blind functions and the rod is secure.   And no holes in the metal door. If you would like more information or would like to order a rod, e-mail me at linda@designsewlutions.ca

If It Doesn't Work It Won't

I love the make-over shows on TV. They are full of good ideas. Sometimes I can adapt an idea and make it work for me or a client but  sometimes I just shake my head and hope that NOBODY takes the idea and does it for herself - my favorite ‘Don’t Do This’ idea was Hildy ‘s bathroom on Trading Spaces  a few years ago where she took  about 3 THOUSAND  plastic flowers, cut off the stems and hot-glue gunned the flowers  to the walls of a bathroom. I think she had forgotten what I believe to be one of the cardinal rules of decorating:  Functional pieces must be functional.  No matter how great it looks, if it doesn’t work for the people who live there, it isn’t a good idea.  It could be that  the  ice blue color of the walls makes the room so cold it is very uncomfortable in the winter.  Or it could be the  overstuffed  leather chairs are so large no-one’s feet touch the floor. Or it could be that the large screen TV is so big  that watching it, looking up, gives everyone a kink in their neck. Far too often I have heard home owners say that the TV must be  in one corner or against one wall because that is where the cable outlet is situated. I’m sorry but Larry the Cable Guy should not be telling you how you decorate your rooms and you most certainly should not be listening. 

Of course there need to be some things in the home that are there  just because you love them. William Morris said, over 100 years ago ‘If you want a Golden Rule  that  will fit everything this is it: Have nothing in your houses that you do not  know to be useful or  believe to be beautiful’. Things that serve a function should be functional, things that serve no purpose other than to be beautiful should be beautiful. Just because your Aunt Lil gave you that ’unusual’ lamp for a wedding present does not mean you must  display it in your living room.  Maybe that cushion cover was  beautiful 10 years ago, but now it’s just plain old tired. It doesn’t have feelings. The feelings about it are yours, keep the memories tucked away but get rid of the tattered old cushion.

Pick a vision for the room. Do you want the master bedroom to be restful, peaceful, beautiful, calm? Look at each and every thing in that room and if it does not fit into that vision then it does not belong in the room.   It’s really that simple but it can be difficult to separate emotions and objectivity.

Here is another instance of how a decorator or designer can help and save you time and money.  We can look at a room objectively; we see a lamp, a rug and a cushion, not Aunt Lil, Mexico and the Market on Granville Island.  We see what works together and what does not.  We can help you define your vision and help you get started making your rooms special.  

FOAM

We have high density, low density, high compression, low compression,   5 ,10 or 15 year, open cell, closed cell, latex, visco-elastic, memory, craft,outdoor and camping foam.  And all you wanted was some new foam for the chair pads in the kitchen.

So here you are, the Foam dictionary:

Density: refers to the amount of material per square foot. High density has more material, low density has less. This figure is usually expressed in pounds per cubic foot - how much  a piece of foam 12” x 12” x 12” weighs.  Or you may hear high, medium and low density. A number 1 density means the foam weighs 1 pound per cubic foot. 

Compression:  The number of pounds of pressure it takes to compress the foam 1 inch. 40 compression foam takes 40 pounds to compress.  This is referred to as the ILD  ('Indentation Load Deflection'  and it is actually a bit more complex than this simple definition but it’s close.) Typically a high density foam requires more compression to flatten it, but this is not a rule.

Closed cell: The very firm  foam  that  is used, for example,  to construct a packing case that mirrors the shape of the object being packed.

Open cell: the holes are not independent, they run into each other - take a close look at a sponge.

Latex: made from rubber, not petroleum products like most foam. Because of it’s resistance to  mold and mildew this is the most hypo-allergic type of foam.

Memory: a type of visco-elastic (latex)  foam that conforms  closely to the object being placed on it (like you).

Craft:  Inexpensive open cell polyurethane foam

Outdoor: An open cell foam with big holes that are large enough for water to pass through. This is the best stuff for out door patio furniture or boat cushions.

Camping and  craft: inexpensive foam, usually black in color, wears out quickly.

5, 10 or 15 year - the number of years of average use it will take to cause the foam to stay compressed when pressure is applied.

Testing foam by squishing it between your fingers will tell how hard you have to press your fingers to squish the foam. Not much else. If you want to know more about the foam you are buying, ask the seller. If they can’t tell you the density, or compression, or year rating assume that you are buying a low quality foam.

I hope this helps de-mystify foam a bit. Once again, if in doubt go to a reputable dealer, tell him your needs and ask for his advice. Prices vary from supplier to supplier and are usually directly related to quality but you should ask. Also remember that foam can not be returned once purchased so make sure you are buying the right one.

Usually for foam that will be used daily such as  chair pads or sofa cushions, a high density, high compression foam will last the longest. But, you may not want a really hard seat, therefore you will want to find a high density, low compression foam.   Or, you may use a high density, high compression foam as the inner core with a memory foam top layer. Most foam cushions on a sofa or in a cushion will have been wrapped with a quilt-batt  like substance, usually dacron or teralyne, that softens the look of the foam and rounds the edges a bit. 

Price of foam:  Some retailers sell foam by the foot or meter per pre-cut width, most foam suppliers calculate the price based on board feet. This is a piece 12” x 12” x 1 inch thick. If the piece was 2 inches thick, it would be 2 board feet. Currently the price of  hi-density 15 year foam is  about 3.50 per board foot.   This means that a sofa cushion 30 x 26 x 6  will cost about 114.00.  Why so much? The only answer I have been given over the last few years is that there were 2 plants producing the raw product for foam in North America prior to Katrina. One was destroyed in the hurricane and this resulted in the high prices. I don’t know if this is true or not but there was a huge jump in foam prices after the hurricane and these prices have not gone back down. 

How to cut foam: Most foam sellers will cut the foam to the shape you need. Take a paper pattern of the shape. Remember too that in order to have a really snug cushion the foam is often cut about 1/2" larger than the finished size. This is up to you. Be careful with this though, if the foam is less than 3" thick or so, it may buckle. 

Cutting foam at home is easy if you use a bread knife or an electric knife.  I bought a new electric knife just recently- cost $8.88 and works very well.  

The following link has good descriptions of most types of foam, including common uses of each type:

http://www.foambymail.com/FoamSpecs.html

The Feature Wall

In the last column I mentioned a design ‘rule’ that is : the eye will go to the area of greatest contrast first.(White belt on a black outfit)   Another example of this is: Think of a tree standing all alone in a field. Now think of that tree with a branch partially broken, hanging down. What is the most obvious thing about that tree, the one thing everyone will see first, before they see the tree? Yup.. the broken branch.

 

This is one of the main design guidelines. If you want something to be noticed in a room, make it different than it’s surroundings.  Another example:  Put three vases of similar size  on a window sill. One is pale green, one is pale blue, one is red. Which one will you notice first? Was that your intention, or was it to have the three vases be a grouping of similar things?  

So, now to feature walls. The function of a feature wall was originally  to create some interest where the was no specific architectural feature in the room. Instead of using furniture or fabric, or art to create a focal point, the feature wall was a bold blast of color, usually contrasting to the main color in the room, that said ‘Look at me, I’m the focal point’.  This is where we put the TV stand in the family room, or the head of the bed in the bedroom. It’s contrasting color made it the first thing someone  would notice when entering the room- the focal point. 

 

The more contrast there is in a room, the smaller the room will feel. (Think of a clutter filled room - lots of contrast.)  A contrasting wall color will make the wall advance, visually. Technically speaking, the lightness or darkness of the color  of the wall determines if the wall will ‘advance’ or ‘retreat’ but in my experience any high contrast color will make the wall more visible therefore making the room appear smaller. If you are decorating a small bedroom, for example, that has no architectural interest, painting one wall a high contrast color will only make the room appear smaller. Paint all the walls the same color and use the headboard as your focal point.  Or do the bed wall in a texture that is very close to the wall color. Or if you want to go big time dramatic, be bold and wall paper all the walls in the same paper.   One of my favorite small rooms of all time was in Chintz and Company in Calgary.  I worked there for a few years and the tiny, tiny ladies powder room on the main floor was wallpapered in a black paper with little bouquets of flowers. The ceiling too.  Very dark, very mysterious, very cool. Even though the paper was black, the room appeared much larger than it actually was because there was very little contrast between the walls, the ceiling  and the floor. 

So, please take care with the feature wall. Consider the purpose of the contrast, ask for some advice.  Maybe just a texture on the walls will do.  And remember the lady with the white belt.

Thanks to all who stopped by the booth at the Women’s Conference. It was good to meet so many of you and it was lots of fun seeing the looks of disbelief when I pointed to  Judy’s chair and said ‘ Yes, that’s a slipcover’. If you haven’t seen it, go to my website, Designsewlutions.ca and connect to the gallery. It’s my favorite slipcover. 

Valances - the good the bad and the ugly

Yes folks, valances are back.  But wait!!  I am not talking about the newspaper stuffed balloon valances, or heaven help us, the combination of  2 or 3   wide rods hung really close together with fabric all squished up.  Style and  beautiful fabrics are what make today’s valances different.  The fabrics do the work. Like a classic dress, it is perfect proportion, great fabric, exemplary construction and attention to detail that make or break a valance.  

When  pre-made blinds and shades became readily available in the early 90’s, a lot of us stopped using fabric on our windows at all. The result was a minimalist look that fit well with the pared down type of decor design of the era. The trend now is toward a warmer, more cozy interior space and fabric window treatments are one of the easiest ways to achieve this. So, because we still have those blinds and shades in place and do not need window coverings to provide privacy or light control, good valances and side panels are the style of the day.

What makes a ‘good’ valance? It starts with matching the style of the valance to the style of the room.  If your room is truly a minimalist room, a simple, tailored box pleated valance works very well.  If this is your 7 year old daughters room, you may opt for a more ‘fluffy’ valance, perhaps one with some fringe trim, but again the more classic styles work best - like an Empire  valance. You won’t tire of them as quickly as with a ‘trendy’ valance. Remember the pole with the fabric looped over and over?  Enough said.  Look at the style of the room, look at a lot of magazines and choose something that suits the room. If you can’t decide, ask for help. Then go look for fabric that suits the valance.  I have a software program that allows me to take a picture of your window, design a drapery treatment on the photo itself, apply the chosen fabric and lets you see what the treatment will look like before you make a final decision.

Fabrics that blend with the wall color  work best.  Here is a design ‘rule’: The eye will go to the area of greatest contrast first. For example, think of a lady in a black blouse and black pants. Now put a wide white belt on the outfit. What will you see first? The black blouse or the white belt? The same  happens in design. If you have soft  grey-taupe walls  in a room with pink accents and you use a bright pink fabric in the valance,  the valance is  the first thing anyone will notice when walking into the room.  More than likely this is not the reaction you want. If you put up a soft grey valance, perhaps with some of the pink in the pattern, the effect will be much less jarring. However you may want the valance to draw attention to the window.  If you have a spectacular view, think of the valance and side panels as being the frame for the picture. Then the attention it draws is warranted, and wanted, and the color should compliment both the walls and the ‘picture’. 

The quickest way to ruin a good valance is to hang it too low or to make it too short. The rule of thumb is that the valance depth  should be  about  1/5 to  1/4  of the perceived window depth and  no less than 12 inches.  This takes a bit of planning. You may have to hang the valance higher and make it longer to achieve the correct proportion. Hanging it higher increases the perceived widow depth.

In one of my earlier columns I told about the new valance hardware available that allows valances to be mounted on doors that open in to the room.  Keep this in mind if you have French Doors that need attention. See the Articles Archive, November ‘ Valances on  In-Opening Doors’ on my website for the column.

So, keep it simple, use great fabrics and stay away from trendy, fussy valances.  Most of  you have a great innate sense of style. Trust yourself.

On my Website, Designsewlutions,ca have a look at the brown and yellow bedroom and on the gallery there are some pictures of E’s kitchen with a really snazzy Empire Valance.   

I will be showing a collection of slipcovered pieces and some Roman Blinds at the Women’s Conference, January 29 and 30 at the Prestige. Stop by for a chat.